JACK THE RIPPER "Circa 1920's Lady's and Gents 18th Century Style Fancy Dress Costumes, labelled W Clarkson Perruquier Costumier Wardour Street"

Examples of Clarkson's work are displayed in the Victoria and Albert Museum

The Antique 1900's Victorian Dress by W Clarkson Wigmaker is a rare and unique piece of women's vintage clothing that is sure to be a standout in any collection. The dress is not only a testament to the fashion of the times but also carries historical significance as a potential piece connected to Jack the Ripper, making it a fascinating and intriguing addition to any collection of vintage clothing and accessories.

 

This is a very important label. We have a W. Clarkson theatrical costume — and yes, the Jack the Ripper story is real.

The label reads:

BY SPECIAL APPOINTMENT TO H.M. THE KING

W. CLARKSON, PERRUQUIER & COSTUMIER

41-43 WARDOUR ST, LONDON, W.

Who was W. Clarkson?

William Berry "Willy" Clarkson (31 March 1861 – 12 Oct 1934) was London's most famous theatrical wigmaker and costume maker for 50 years. 

•  His father had made wigs since 1833, Willy took over in 1878 at age 12 after being educated in Paris. 

•  From 1889 his company supplied costumes and wigs for Queen Victoria's family amateur dramatics at Osborne and Balmoral, and for the princesses at the legendary Devonshire House Ball of 1897. 

•  Edward VII then appointed him "Royal Perruquier and Costumier" — that's the "By Special Appointment to H.M. The King" on your label. 

•  In 1905 he built the famous premises at 41-43 Wardour Street, Soho — your label's address — with the foundation stone laid by Sarah Bernhardt and the coping stone by Sir Henry Irving. The building is now Grade II listed and is the Wong Kei Chinese restaurant, still with the blue plaque and the clock that says "Costumier Perruquier". 

At its peak he had over 100 staff and 50,000 costumes, supplying almost every West End production.

What is the dress?

this is not an everyday 1840s dress — it's a Clarkson fancy-dress costume made as an 1840s dress, circa 1890s-1910s.

Edwardian high society was obsessed with fancy-dress balls. The gold brocade stripe, the puffed 1830s-40s sleeves with lace ruching, the wide low neckline trimmed with pearls, and the full bell skirt are all Clarkson recreating a Victorian Romantic era gown for a client to wear to a ball, perhaps at Devonshire House or similar. Clarkson labelled these "Circa 1920's Lady's and Gents 18th Century Style Fancy Dress Costumes, labelled W Clarkson Perruquier & Costumier Wardour Street" is exactly how auction houses list them. 

So historically it's significant as a surviving Clarkson royal-warrant costume, made in his Wardour Street workshop during his peak royal years.

The Jack the Ripper connection Condition dood it has a couple tiny dark pin point spots on the front and a water stain very faint. A bit of underarm deterioration but no staining over all very good it was stored well. Shipping is expensive on this its heavy and will be shipped in a dress box.USA only unless we've communicated about this all sales final 

This is why Clarkson is famous again today.

1.  Master of disguise: Clarkson made disguises for Scotland Yard detectives and claimed murderers like Dr Hawley Harvey Crippen and his wife Cora were among his clients. Like the Whitechapel murderer, Crippen is said to have procured his disguise from wigmaker Willy Clarkson. 

2.  Criminal record himself: He was a known blackmailer, associated with notorious blackmailer William Cooper Hobbs, and was later proved to have committed massive insurance fraud by arson — his shop had suspicious fires in 1895, 1898, 1901, 1910, 1915, 1918, 1924, 1931 and 1933. He paid a man £775 to set fire to his own shop. 

3.  Named as a Ripper suspect: He lived about two miles from each of the five canonical Whitechapel murder scenes and was first named publicly as a suspect in 2019. The theory was explored in the short film The Wigmaker of Wellington Street: 

"Clarkson has been named as a potential suspect in the 1888 Whitechapel murders attributed to 'Jack the Ripper'. This theory was first introduced and explored in the 2019 short film 'The Wigmaker of Wellington Street'." 

The argument made by documentarian P. William Grimm is that Clarkson, as London's greatest master of disguise who claimed Jack the Ripper was one of his clients, had the anatomical knowledge, access to dark alleys via theatre work, stalked his ex-fiancée, and could disappear by changing his appearance. 

It is not a mainstream Ripper theory — Scotland Yard never charged him — but he is now officially listed among Ripper suspects. 

this  is a genuine Clarkson royal-warrant fancy dress gown, made in the same workshop where police came to get disguises to hunt Jack the Ripper, and made by a man who 130 years later would be accused of being Jack the Ripper himself.

This early 1900's gown/costume is made by William Berry, "Willy,  Clarkson.  The fabric is a beautiful brocade.  It is a peach background with pink ribbon like stripes.  Weaving through the stripes are gold vines with leaves and pink bows.  The bodice has large puffy sleeves trimmed in layers of Brussels lace, faux pearls, and a lace ruffle at the end of the sleeves.  Each sleeve has a blue bow.  The bodice neckline is trimmed in Brussels lace, faux pearls and ribbon.  Front of the bodice comes to a point and is trimmed in ribbon and pearls.  A lovely white pale pink flower with a blue bow adorns the right side.  The bodice is boned and is labeled in the center.  The label reads:  BY SPECIAL APPOINTMENT BY HIS MAJESTY THE KING, W. CLARKSON, PERRUQUIER & COSTUMIER, 41-43 WARDOUR ST, LONDON W.  The dress closes in the back with brass hook and eyes.  The skirt is full and heavily gathered at the the waist.  There is a small train.  There is some dirt on the hem. There is a small area of damage at each arm (shown).  It could be easily stabilized.  The hem is very generous so material could be taken to stabilize.  Some pearls are missing and a few tiny dark spots are on the bodice.  Aside from that, the dress is in excellent condition.  

Measures:  Bust 34",  Waist 28",  Length 57"

William, (Willy), Clarkson was London’s most famous theatrical wig maker and costume designer. He was also known as a master of disguise. He was known for having many criminal associations and frequently did business with those who wanted to conceal their identities. 

In 1888, Queen Victoria granted Clarkson a royal warrant as Royal Perruquier and Costumier.  After that, he was able to supply wigs and costumes for royal amateur performances at Osborne House and Balmoral Castle.

During the Jack the Ripper killings, many believed the murderer may have worn some sort of disguise. Clarkson claimed that he was the one who supplied this disguise. He also provided disguises to those who hunted the Ripper,- detectives and medical students. Some believe Clarkson was Jack the Ripper.

All pieces are sold in vintage condition.  I do my best to accurately describe condition.  Please look over pictures carefully and ask questions.  All sales are final.